Page 50 - TalkTalk

The
Evolution of
Sushi
Sushi holds an esteemed place among the world’s
cuisines today, but the origins of this popular food
date back many centuries. The history of sushi is a
story of transformation, cultural exchange, and
remarkable consistency across its different eras
and regions. By examining sushi’s origins, spread,
and more recent innovations, we can better
understand how this cuisine has adapted over time
while retaining the core essence that makes it
uniquely sushi.
The early origins of sushi lie in Southeast Asia,
where fish was first preserved with fermented rice.
Around the 2nd century AD, rice cultivation and
irrigation methods were introduced to Japan from
China. This had profound implications for sushi’s
development, as the glutinous rice grown in Japan
was ideal for moulding into bite-sized portions that
held together when picked up by hand. Locals
began packing these hand-moulded rice portions
with raw, salted fish, marking the genesis of sushi.
Sushi continued to evolve new forms and
preparation methods in Japan’s Nara period during
the 8th century. Fish was stuffed into moulds with
rice and weighted down with heavy stones to
compress it. This compacted sushi, known as nare-
zushi, could then be left to ferment for months,
allowing the fish to cure before eating. Nare-zushi
was superseded by haya-zushi in the following
centuries. Haya-zushi used fresher fish with light
salting instead of extended fermentation. The
quicker preparation of haya-zushi gave rise to the
etymology of sushi, as “sushi” became shorthand
for the sour taste of the lightly vinegared rice.
In the Edo period spanning the 17th to 19th
centuries, contemporary nigiri sushi was invented,
reflecting further refinement and innovation. With
nigiri sushi, fresh fish slices are draped over small,
hand-pressed rice portions. This compact finger-
food was well-suited for busy urban life in Edo, or
modern-day Tokyo. Regional differences even
emerged as Tokyo-style nigiri favoured fatter cuts
like tuna, while Kyoto’s style used leaner seafood
like shrimp. Vinegar continued to be added to the
rice both for taste and preservation.
By the 19th century, the swap to raw seafood
yielded edomae sushi and its simple, delicate
flavors. Thanks to modern refrigeration, sushi no
longer relied on curing or fermenting fish for
longevity. This allowed high-quality seafood to be
served fresh and uncooked over vinegar rice. Sushi
chefs also focused more on artful presentation with
colorful additions like roe and pickled garnishes.
Sushi’s growing popularity led it to spread globally
by the mid-20th century. After WWII, American
soldiers returning home from Japan brought a
craving for sushi. California became an early
adopter of sushi, catering largely to Japanese-
Americans. By the 1970s and 80s, sushi broke into
mainstream America as Japanese cuisine gained
trendiness. Sushi’s integration included creative
twists like the California roll with avocado. As sushi
proliferated worldwide, it localized to suit regional
tastes from Mexico to Malaysia.
Today, sushi is more popular than ever, with
globally-recognized nigiri pieces like salmon, tuna,
and shrimp. Sushi remains beloved for the interplay
of cool, vinegar-tinged rice and creamy seafood
flavors. Chefs continue to innovate with modern
forms like sushi burritos or vegan sushi. Yet amidst
these adaptations over centuries and across
continents, the essential DNA of sushi persists. This
balance of tradition and evolution is what makes
sushi a true world citizen among global cuisine.