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25. 10. 2025  
Stringing

Oozing

 

 Absolutely, Nick — those filament strands hanging between parts or across the first layer are often called “stringing” or “oozing”, and they’re usually caused by the nozzle leaking a little plastic while moving between areas. Here's a breakdown of why it happens and how to ritualize its remedy:

🧵 Why Filament Hangs or Strings

1. Retraction Settings Too Low

  • If the printer doesn’t retract filament enough before moving, molten plastic leaks out.
  • Symbolically: the filament “speaks out of turn” — it hasn’t been drawn back into silence before the next gesture.

2. Nozzle Temperature Too High

  • Hotter filament flows more easily, even when it shouldn’t.
  • Like a ritual tool overheated, it loses its precision and spills its essence.

3. Travel Moves Over Open Space

  • If the nozzle travels across gaps (e.g. between eyes and head), it may drag a thread behind.
  • This is the “thread of unintended connection” — a filamentary bridge between unmeant realms.

4. First Layer Too Close or Too Hot

  • On the first layer, if the nozzle is too close or the bed too hot, filament may smear or drag.
  • This creates “wisps of confusion” — the ritual surface isn’t receiving the offering cleanly.

🛠️ How to Fix It

Cause Ritual Adjustment
Retraction too low Increase retraction distance (e.g. 4–6 mm) and speed (e.g. 25–40 mm/s)
Nozzle too hot Lower temperature by 5–10°C
Travel over gaps Enable Combing or Avoid crossing perimeters in slicer
First layer issues Re-level bed, adjust Z-offset, reduce first layer temp slightly

🧩 Symbolic Tip

You might name this phenomenon “The Threads Between Worlds” — and your tuning process becomes a rite of clarity. Would you like help designing a test print or scroll to teach this concept to younger club members? Perhaps a model called “The Weaver’s Path”, where intentional and unintentional threads are contrasted.

 
infill/wall overlap Absolutely, Nick — infill/wall overlap is a subtle but powerful setting in slicing that affects how well your print’s internal structure bonds to its outer shell. It’s the handshake between strength and surface quality, and it deserves a ritual name like “The Joining Margin.” Let’s explore it:

🧱 What Is Infill/Wall Overlap?

  • It defines how much the infill pattern overlaps with the inner wall (perimeter) of your print.
  • Usually expressed as a percentage of nozzle width (e.g. 15–30%).

🎯 Why It Matters

Effect Too Low Overlap Too High Overlap
Bonding Weak connection between infill and wall Strong bond, but may cause bulging
Surface Quality Clean walls, but risk of gaps Possible ridges or artifacts on walls
Strength Reduced structural integrity Improved strength, but cosmetic trade-offs

⚙️ Typical Settings

  • 15–25% overlap is common for PLA.
  • In PrusaSlicer, it’s called “Infill/perimeter overlap” under Print Settings > Advanced.
  • In Cura, it’s “Infill Overlap” and can be tuned per material.

🧩 Symbolic Tip

You could treat this setting as the “Margin of Unity” — the space where inner purpose meets outer form. Would you like help designing a test print to visualize different overlap values, perhaps shaped like a “Bonding Sigil” with concentric rings and infill glyphs?

We could even name the ritual: “The Embrace of Structure.”

 
   
Resolution in 3d printing? Absolutely — adjusting resolution is a key part of 3D printing, and it directly affects the quality, detail, and speed of your prints. Here's how it works and how you can control it:

🧠 What “Resolution” Means in 3D Printing

In 3D printing, resolution typically refers to:

  • Layer height (Z resolution): The thickness of each printed layer. Smaller values = smoother surfaces and finer detail.
  • XY resolution: The precision of movement in the horizontal plane, often determined by the printer’s mechanics and nozzle size.

🔧 How to Adjust Resolution

You can tweak resolution settings in your slicer software (like Cura, PrusaSlicer, or Bambu Studio). Here's how:

1. Layer Height

  • Where to find it: In the slicer’s “Print Settings” or “Quality” tab.
  • Typical values:
    • 0.1 mm = high detail, slow print
    • 0.2 mm = standard quality
    • 0.3 mm+ = fast, rough prints
  • Symbolic tip: You might name your 0.1 mm setting “Feather Mode” and 0.3 mm “Brick Mode” for club rituals!

2. Nozzle Size

  • Physical change: Swap to a smaller nozzle (e.g. 0.2 mm) for finer detail, or larger (e.g. 0.6 mm) for faster prints.
  • Note: Nozzle size limits how small your layer height and XY detail can be.

3. Line Width and Wall Thickness

  • These affect how fine or bold your printed lines are. Adjust in slicer under “Shell” or “Walls.”

4. Print Speed

  • Slower speeds improve detail and reduce vibration artifacts. Found in “Speed” settings.

🧙 Ritualizing the Process

Since you love symbolic naming, you could create a ceremonial scroll of resolution modes:

  • “Whisper Layer” for ultra-fine 0.08 mm
  • “Torch Layer” for bold, fast 0.3 mm
  • “Rune Width” for line width settings
  • “Pilgrim’s Pace” for slow, careful speed

Would you like help designing a ritual test print that showcases these modes for club teaching?